Gonset Gsb 101 Manual Treadmill
- Jul 01, 2009 Gonset GSB-101 eHam. The Gonset manual shows the -100 bias for turning off the tubes during receive and a 110VAC line for switching the.
- Gonset GSB-101 (1/3) > >. The Gonset manual shows the -100 bias for turning off the tubes during receive and a 110VAC line for switching the transmit / receive.
Gonset GSB-100 manual, reprint. This is a digitally copied and enhanced manual for the Gonset GSB-100 SSB Transmitter. It is clear, clean, and easy to read.
Country: Manufacturer / Brand: Year: 1960?? Category: RF (Radio Frequency-) Amplifier Valves / Tubes 7: Main principle Radio Frequency Amplification only Wave bands Wave Bands given in the notes. Details Power type and voltage Alternating Current supply (AC) / 110-125 Volt Loudspeaker -No sound reproduction output. Power out from Radiomuseum.org Model: Linear Amplifier GSB-101 - Gonset Inc., Waterproof Elect. Material Metal case Shape Tablemodel, low profile (big size). Notes Linear Amplifier for 80 to 10 meters amateur bands.
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Gonset Gsb 101 Amplifier
Up to 800 W pep out. Mentioned in - Original-techn. Model page created. See 'Data change' for further contributors.
Marc, In addition to minimizing tune-up time and out of resonance high plate current it is also very important to keep the final properly loaded. Screen grid current soars under high drive/light loading conditions and the screen grid is the most fragile element in most sweep tubes. For best life with sweep tube finals, load quickly to rated input and then reduce the input slightly by reducing drive level. This is also the proper method for using a sweep tube equipped SSB/CW rig when the accompanying amplifier requires lower drive. Once initial tune-up is complete then record the values so that future tune-up will be faster with no large out of resonance current flow. Given the price of most sweep tubes today it is a good idea to provide forced air cooling for any rig that wasn't originally equipped with a fan.
A small amount of air flow can greatly increase tube life but care is needed in mounting a fan, especially in those transmitters using 7360 or other sheet beam tubes as balanced modulators since they are easily upset by stray magnetic fields. A small heat radiating plate cap connector is also of benefit.
When neutralizing the new final tube, if you don't use the method in the manual and instead opt for the 'traditional' transmitting test neutralization then first adjust on 20 where the final is less likely to take off and then do the final adjustments on the higher bands. I have numerous pieces of Gonset gear and most of it strikes me as being a bit on the light side construction wise but the GSB-100 and GSB-101 both seem very solid.
The GSB-100 does have a reputation for going through the original power transformer but otherwise it seems very solid. Both of my GSB-100 transmitters came to me with replacement transformers so I never had the opportunity to investigate the failure mode. Now Marc once again I suggest it is time to find a matching GSB-101 as a payoff/reward for the time and success from your GSB-100 troubleshooting. Like the GSB-100 it is very solid and also has low cost (811A) finals. But the GSB-101 is so much simpler than the transmitter, just a power supply and a single amplifier stage.
No mixers, oscillators, or modulator circuits and nothing to align Amplifiers were the last thing built by most amateurs and they do make a great homebrew project. When I was more serious about contesting 10 years ago I built a rack mount 'contest duty' amp using three 4CX800 tetrodes in class AB1 with a large P.
Dahl transformer. It wasn't a 'cost is no object' design but it was a 'cost is little object' design and a lot of fun to build.
Between the robust design and protective circuity I built it to survive those mistakes that often occur during the latter part of a contest when I am sleep deprived. I also wanted something that would easily run legal limit AM without stress for use with lower power vintage AM rigs. In all seriousness congratulations for sticking with a project that provided some very interesting complications! You can definitely give yourself a pat on the back for good troubleshooting.
Rodger, You're too kind. Thanks, but much of what I accomplished was through contributions from members like yourself.
Gonset Gsb-101 Manual
My next chore is to clean up the SSB signal a bit. It seems I have basically a DSB signal with only a small amount of opposite sideband suppression. I just need to follow the suppression procedures very closely and see if I can improve on that a bit. Most hams aren't aware of the phenomenon, but I asked a fellow last night to evaluate my audio, and he said he could hear me clearly on either sideband. I am a little confused on how to set up the oscilloscope to check the balanced modulator. I was not able to duplicate the visual pattern shown in the manual.
Here again, another area where I have little training. But I'll get to the bottom of it sooner or later. If you know of an alternative method of monitoring the signal, such as with another receiver, I am all ears. Cheers, Marc PS-The new 6DQ5 came in the mail last night and the output is a steady 65 watts. Thanks for that nudge. It is exactly what the rig needed. Marc, When phasing rigs like the GSB-100 were made most amateurs didn't have access to a receiver with excellent selectivity which allowed the receiver to listen to only one sideband, most modern receivers have this capability and you will find they are much easier to use than a scope to adjust the sideband suppression.
If you have a receiver with good crystal or mechanical IF filters and selectable sideband (or a well aligned classic receiver with a low final IF like the Hallicrafters SX-101/115/117; Drake R-4, 4A, 4B, or the Hammarlund HQ-170/180 series) you can use it to easily adjust the phasing setup. Set the test receiver up to receive the opposite sideband from the GSB-100 setting and use an audio oscillator as suggested in the GSB-100 manual. If you don't have a audio oscillator then you need one more SSB receiver that preferably will receive the broadcast band or a strong stable signal like WWV.
You can detune this receiver to create the needed tone. Once everything is set up first adjust the carrier balance controls to minimize the hetrodyne 'whistle' from the carrier (listening with your test receiver) and then adjust the phasing control to minimize the audio signal. Switch sidebands on both the GSB-100 and test receiver and note the level of unwanted sideband. As noted in alignment you may need to choose a compromise setting to provide good suppression on both sidebands. If you are only using one sideband (i.e. All operation on 80 and 40) then you can optimize it for this sideband and the suppression level will rival modern rigs. The scope method works but it is more difficult because hum and/or minor distortion in your audio oscillator, hum pickup in the audio cables or generated in the audio stages, along with RF getting into the audio oscillator will cause very difficult to interpret patterns that often mimic poor sideband suppression.
Also 'service' type scopes often have significant hum superimposed on the trace and this only gets worse with component aging which further confuses the process. So a scope pattern can be very tough to interpret.
I now 'cheat' and use a Tektonix 7L13 spectrum analyzer plug-in with my scope and this makes adjustment very simple because it shows both sidebands and the carrier as individual 'pips' on the screen along with the actual suppression level in db from the reference level. It makes alignment very simple.
The first transmitter I aligned using the scope method was a Central Electronics 20A and I was using a good quality Tektronix 7854 scope and HP low distortion audio generator with properly shielded leads and the pattern was still a bit difficult to interpret. After fooling around with that setup for an hour I decided to try to align it using the receiver section of my Yaesu FT-980 transceiver and I had it aligned properly in under 5 minutes. Glad the final tube fixed it!